Hi,

I thought the download link gets you the STL directly...

Not much description but it is the "InfocastFrame.stl" in Thing : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5681

It fits the Main PCB approximately 100 x 80 x 40.

I have a 3D Printer, I tried it against the C1 and the Infocast motherboards but I don't have a CHB.  I had to modify cases because of connector differences between C1/Infocast and just want to check against CHB [Even though it looks like it'll fit visually].

I didn't realize that was one piece. I'm working on an infocast case too and it literally is edge to edge on the cupcake without a raft. I'm having quite a time getting my printer to a state to print something that big acceptably. The pic shows your piece with the long length up. Is that how you printed it?

Well, the question is really 'does skeinforge do supports", and the stock software from Makerbot uses a really old skeinforge (at least the last time I updated....) so anyway on my workbench, no.

I don't have a heated build platform yet (another kit that is still in the box on the workbench), so large prints are a roll of the dice because the probability of a peeled raft is 0 < p < 0.5 with my current system tuning (and printer operating skill).  The build platform is 100 x 100, but you lose some X because of mounting screw heads, so effectively 100mm in Y before you fall off the edge and 90mm in X before you risk crashing into a screw head.  125mm Z.  My daughter did a cookie cutter for her track coach and although the part was under 100mm, the raft was like 102mm in Y, so we had some interesting drizzle off the edge of the platform -- interestingly, that certainly fixes raft peelage.  Ended up with a beautiful print.

@Billy
You may have heard this before, but tune the thermistor tracking!   My first small prints were only so-so successful, and I couldn't do large stuff.  I set out to do a full-up and thorough calibration, expecting a long grind.  First step was to hook up a multi-meter with a thermocouple probe to the print head to adjust the thermistor.  I got the thermistor and thermocouple to track +/- 1C -- which is about as good as you can expect from that hardware, I think.  Anyway, with *just* *that* change, all of a sudden prints started coming out beautiful and reliable using default skeinforge settings.

My other piece of Makerbot wisdom is the Z-axis wobble arrestors and such to kill wobble are a band-aid on the real problem.  First, make sure the Z axis rods are straight.  Then... realize that you are putting an imperial threaded rod into a metric bearing, and there is a huge amount of slop!!  Find some magnet wire or something to wrap in the threads to keep the Z rods centered in the bearings while you tighten them down.  Wobble will be gone.

Weld-On #16 all the way, baby!

I originally made it in multiple pieces, but I decided that I just REALLY wanted one piece to be stubborn. Well.. Two pieces. A front and a back.

It's going well, but there is a lot of stuff that is just super annoying on the software side. I'm actually surprised at how sloppy the machine can be setup and still kick out good prints. It's just when you start wanting large dimensional parts when you need good setup.